Jumaah at Masjid Hagia Sophia: Turkish Secularism Received A Blow That It Is Unlikely to Recover From
By
Ustadh Abu Haneefah Sohail
27 July 2020
The phrase
‘once in a lifetime’ is somewhat overused for events that fade into mediocrity.
Yet standing at the gates of Hagia Sophia and waiting for the first prayer
there in 85 years was truly an awe-inspiring event.
yusuf.yilmaz / Shutterstock.com
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The
monument itself is a timeless wonder that has encapsulated the cultures of
ancient Greece, medieval Byzantium, the Ottoman Empire, and modern Europe.
Architects, mathematicians, geometers, engineers, and artists alike have all
etched their influence into its splendid domes, mosaics, murals, and minarets.
The result is a monument that has withstood 14 centuries of earthquakes, riots,
invasions, and wars, standing gracefully on the horizon, evoking awe and
wonder.
A man wearing a face mask stands in front of Hagia Sophia during the
preparations for the Friday prayer in Istanbul, on July 23, 2020. - The first
prayers at Hagia Sophia since the Istanbul landmark was reconverted to a mosque
will take place on July 23, 2020. (AFP)
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Procopius,
the principal Byzantine historian of the 6th century described Hagia Sophia as
“a most glorious spectacle, extraordinary to those who behold it and altogether
incredible to those who are told of it. In height it rises to the very heavens
and overtops the neighbouring houses like a ship anchored among them, appearing
above the city which it adorns.” [1]
The prayer
itself was of course the Jumu’ah prayer – the best day of the week, nestled in
the best days of the year. The chosen date of 24th July was hugely significant,
as it was the 97th anniversary of the Treaty of Lausanne, signed in 1923, that
officially ended hostilities between the Allies and the Ottoman Empire. This
prayer was not only a ritual act of worship but a bold statement to the world
of the resurgence of Turkey’s Islamic heritage.
The streets
of Istanbul were flooded with a sea of worshippers patiently waiting for the
prayer, with some having camped out since the night before. The roofs of coffee
houses and shacks became makeshift prayer spaces where youngsters scrambled for
a spot to pray. Wave upon wave of Takbīr resounded across the old city,
reaching a crescendo when President Erdoğan began his recitation of the Qur’ān.
The Imam was Dr Ali Erbaş, the Head of Diyanet, the Directorate of Religious
Affairs. He delivered the sermon resting on a ceremonial sword from the Ottoman
era. The sermon was confident and victorious in nature, citing the great
ahādīth of the conquest of Constantinople and unapologetic in raising the cause
of Masjid Al-Aqsa. This was a day of celebration. This was a day of healing for
the Ummah.
Turkey's ancient Hagia Sophia, which has been a museum for decades, is
now being turned back into a mosque, causing religious and political divisions.
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The
protests from orthodox Christendom were to be expected, but what is clear is
that the undertone of these criticisms reveal a virulent strain of anti-Turkish
paranoia and racism. Ultimately, Hagia Sophia remains open to people of all
faiths to visit in much the same way that the Sultanahmet Mosque across the
road fulfils its dual purpose as a functioning mosque and a world heritage
site. Indeed, the removal of the entry fee to Hagia Sophia should be an added
incentive for tourists and worshippers alike to experience its splendour.
Orthodox Christians may well ponder on the fact that it was marauding Catholic
crusaders who laid the city of Istanbul to waste by plundering, murdering, and
raping their Christian brethren in 1204, causing a rapid decline in the
fortunes of the great city that strides two continents. They may well reflect
on the words of EvliyaÇelebi, the Ottoman chronicler of the 17th century who
describes Hagia Sophia at the peak of its splendour and spiritual aura:
“Every
night in the month of Ramazan, the two thousand lamps lighted there and the
lanterns containing wax tapers perfumed with camphor pour forth streams of
light upon light; and in the centre of the dome a circle of lamps represents in
letters as finely formed as those of Yakut Musta’sime, that text of the Quran:
“God is the light of the heavens and of the earth.” [2]
Waiting for
the prayer to start, I felt this was truly a ‘once in a lifetime’ event. An
event where the savagery of 85 years of Turkish secularism finally received a
blow that it is unlikely to recover from. The congregation of Pakistanis,
Bangladeshis, Malaysians, and Muslims from every other nation from this Ummah
surrounding me was uplifting. Each person had their own story to tell of
marginalisation, structural racism, and unfulfilled hopes and dreams. Each
person took away their own inspiration from this day of healing. The call to
prayer will no longer resound within the walls of Hagia Sophia alone. The call
to prayer will resound in the hearts of every person who witnessed this great
day.
Notes:
[1] Sumner-Boyd, H. and Freely, J., 1985. Strolling Through Istanbul, A
Brief Guide To The City. [Istanbul]: Redhouse Press, p.35.
[2] Sumner-Boyd, H. and Freely, J., 1985. Strolling Through Istanbul, A
Brief Guide To The City. [Istanbul]: Redhouse Press, p.55
Original
Headline: My Jumaah at Masjid Hagia Sophia
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